Morphodynamics of Wave-dominated Coasts

FaculteitFaculty of Geosciences

NiveauMaster

Studiejaar2026-2027

Beschrijving

Course goals

Please note: the information in the course manual is binding.

By the end of the course, the student:

Has acquired an in-depth, quantitative understanding of wave statistics (including time series analysis), wave transformation, wave-induced and aeolian sand transport, and morphological evolution in wave-dominated coasts;
Can program assignments related to time series analysis, modelling and data-model comparison using Python;
Can differentiate and recommend modelling approaches for waves and wave-driven morphodynamics;
Is able to critically read scientific literature and to position detailed research results in the broader picture of coastal research;
Can describe and motivate the choices in the management of the wave-dominated coasts (with a focus on the Dutch context), including dunes.

Content

Wind-generated waves are the main driving force for the evolution of the nearshore zone (water depths less than 10 m) on time scales of hours (storms) to decades. As waves approach the coast, they transform by altering, among other characteristics, shape, height, length, and orientation. This results in a wide variety of other processes, including alongshore currents and rip currents. Also, it leads to the transport of sand perpendicular to and along the coast. As a consequence, the morphology of the nearshore zone changes continuously as the offshore wave conditions change with time and when mankind intervenes with coastal processes, for example, by artificially placing sand to enhance coastal safety. This makes the nearshore zone one of the most dynamic and complicated regions within the oceanic domain.

Main topics of the course include:

cross-shore transformation of wind-generated waves, and the resulting currents;
sand transport and morphological evolution;
modelling of waves, currents, and sand transport;

at a range of time scales (hours - decades) and in natural and humanly altered wave-dominated coastal settings. The later setting provides the student with insight into issues related to present-day coastal zone management.

The topics will be treated by means of lectures and computer assignments. As part of the course, the student is expected to apply/develop Python code to analyze scientific data and to compare these data to model predictions. This will provide the student with insight into present-day capabilities of models used in both scientific and coastal-zone-management settings, and with Python programming skills.

The course contributes to the following transferable skills:

Ability to work in a team: All computer assignments are performed in teams of 2 or 3 persons. Although each team is to provide a report, co-operation between teams during the assignments is encouraged.
Written communication skills: Results of all computer assignments are presented in reports.
Problem-solving skills: The teams have to define a strategy how to implement code to solve allocated scientific questions.
Analytical/quantitative skills: The students have to use the developed code, together with knowledge from the lectures, to answer allocated scientific questions.
Technical skills: The students will (further) develop their programming skills for data analysis and modelling.

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